I was fairly misleading at the end of my last
post by promising a new entry shortly after. I got busy! I'm going to try to
get back on track here though. I hope I haven't lost too many of you frequent
visitors. My apologies.
What I really wanted to talk about was our
island tour with the significant others group. At the time it was probably our
favourite day thus far. The goal was to circumnavigate the island and hit some
of the hotspots along the way. We did something very similar when our parents
were here but in the reverse direction. I wouldn't hesitate to say that this
was our new favourite day. And just because I really want to induce some
confusion, I am going to attempt to tackle some of the overlapping events at
the same time.
All the forts on the island are
quite fascinating. We visited Fort Frederick, Fort Matthew, and Fort
George. It stretches one's imagination to picture the time and circumstance that
they were built. I often forget that people have stood where I am standing and
had an entirely different experience. We were lucky on our first visit to Fort
Frederick to have a great tour guide who refers to herself as "Alice in
Wonderland".
Alice In Wonderland |
When the French took over from the British, they
were able to do so by attacking from inland, rather than the expected naval
assault. This is why Fort Frederick, cunningly built by the French, has all of
its cannons pointed inland and was also given the nickname the "Backwards
Facing Fort". Even more interesting than that, Alice in Wonderland told us
her story of hurricane Ivan (as a quick recap, hurricane Ivan in 2004
practically obliterated the island. It was the worst since hurricane Janet in
1955). The winds were treacherous. She took her bed sheets and tied her
children to her body and furthermore, to the top
of their roof to keep it from blowing off. Wisely, she had a knife at the ready should
she need to cut them free. Her story had a bit more impact because of the tremendous wind we felt up there that day.
A lot of hairspray was needed in the making of this shot |
Fort Matthew, the friendly neighbour of Fort
Fred, has its own stories to tell. From the perspective of tourism, Fort
Frederick is far more popular. If you are asking me, I think Matt has the edge.
At one point it was a mental hospital. After seeing some of the wreckage and
the intricate tunnels here, I'd wonder what a place like this would do to
someone's psyche, let alone someone's whose is already delicate. This Fort is
not as well preserved as its kin, but I think it has a lot of charm. One of the
reasons it is in rougher shape is the US intervention in 1983 (they came
in to extract American SGU students and to put the kibosh on a violent
revolution involving Cuban and Russian communists). Unfortunately, a US
bomb meant for Frederick hit Matthew instead, leaving much of it in a more
ruined state. One could go on an on about the place, but I suggest you visit
the bar that it now houses.
I hope she's taking a better shot than this one |
Fort number three is Fort George. As I just
recently read, the French originally named it Fort Royal. As with the other
forts, there is a great deal of history here. One tid-bit I'd like to mention
is that apparently there were connecting tunnels between all three of these
forts. Given that two, Fred and Matt, are on the hill, and George down at sea
level, it seems like a pretty astonishing distance to me to have a tunnel. Fort
George is where Maurice Bishop, the prime minister at the time of the
revolution in 1983, met his demise in the way of execution at the hands of the
revolutionaries from his own government. This would be the straw that broke the
camels back when the US decided it was time to intervene. For a somewhat B
movie recommendation, watch Heartbreak Ridge—it's a Clint Eastwood flick with
a dash of Operation Urgent Fury attached to the end (actually, don't waste your
time).
Atop Fort George |
Leapers Hill Monument |
Inside the beans are covered in a white flesh
that is sweet. Part of our tour here let us try sucking on a bean. Depending on
your tour group size, it may be off-putting to see a dozen different dirty
hands in one cocoa pod fumbling around for a white gooey bean. I thought it
tasted good regardless. They take all the beans from the pods and cover them up
in banana leaves and burlap and let them ferment for 8 days. From there, they
dry them in the sun thoroughly and every half hour someone needs to walk the
cocoa to turn the beans over. What I mean by that is this:
Walking the Cocoa |
I think if they can get a new tour group every
half hour they'd have it made. For those that are concerned about the possible
toe jam in their Butterfinger, the actual cocoa comes from inside the bean
after they crack it open. But you can take pause and think of our sweaty feet
next time you sip a hot chocolate. Before cocoa, the estate also was a sugar cane
plantation and a cotton plantation and was an estate run by the labour of
slaves. Interestingly enough, here remains the slave bell they would call them
with.
Belmont Slave Bell |
Belmont has cocoa, history, oh, and of course a
petting zoo.
Who is petting who? |
On to Pearl's Airport i.e. an eerie abandoned
runway that they sometimes do drag racing on. It was built on Amerindian
remnants. Later my lovely's father and I attended a talk by a US Marine that
was part of the US intervention. He mentioned to us this airstrip was partially
funded by the Russians to increase tourism to the island, however, the strip
was just wide enough for Russian military aircrafts and not the typical
passenger flying aircraft of the time. If there is truth in this, I have
absolutely no idea. There is a couple of old planes still sitting on the side
of the strip. They apparently have a bull guarding them (this is likely
happenstance because there are cattle and goats along the entire strip). During
our time there with the SOs some of us played matador so others could get
photos of themselves with the plane. I think he just wanted some attention.
See, I wasn't bull-shtuffing |
This is where most of the overlap finishes. If
you want more info on any of the places we went to, I'd highly recommend coming
for a visit. I think my idle banter and photos can only do so much justice to
the place.
Again, I am left with enough material to write
another blog post and so you will be spared until the next post. No promises on
when that will be this time. But I truthfully really want to have it done sooner
rather than later. We may be four hours ahead of many of you (daylight savings doesn't affect
us), but I think the Grenada pace is really starting to take hold.
For the new mothers out there, I will leave you with this...
For the new mothers out there, I will leave you with this...
Behind a fish store in Grenville |
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